On an island surrounded by the Mediterranean, you would expect the national dish to be fish. It is not. In Malta, the king of the kitchen is Fenek — rabbit. And it is not just about taste. It is about history and national identity.
For centuries the Knights of Malta reserved rabbit hunting exclusively for themselves — in their view a privilege of the ruling class. For ordinary Maltese — a humiliation. When the Knights left, the nation turned to rabbit with such energy that "fenek" became a symbol of freedom. To this day eating a "fenkata" (a rabbit feast) carries an almost ritual significance in Maltese culture.
What Does It Taste Like?
Forget the dry, bland rabbit you might know from a supermarket. Maltese fenek is marinated overnight in wine, garlic and herbs, then braised slowly for hours. The meat falls off the bone, aromatic and tender. It is a completely different creature.
Three Versions You Will Encounter
- Stuffat tal-fenek (braised stew): Rabbit in a rich tomato sauce with peas, vegetables and potatoes. The classic. The sauce is so good they serve it first on spaghetti — then the meat arrives as the main course. Two dishes in one.
- Fenek moqli (fried rabbit): Marinated in wine and then fried in olive oil with a generous amount of garlic. Crispy, intensely flavoured, addictive.
- Tavern-style fried rabbit: A more casual version — enormous portions, perfect with a carafe of local wine.
Where to Eat It
Not in the tourist centre. Go to the villages:
- United Restaurant in Mġarr (Malta, not Gozo): Looks like a 1990s canteen — checked tablecloths, zero décor. But the fenek and snails (bebbux) here are world-class. Maltese families eat here on Sundays. That is the only recommendation you need.
- Rabat: Several excellent restaurants near Crystal Palace specialising in traditional Maltese cooking.